The establishment features a laudably creative bill of fare and, in doing so, seems poised to become a bona fide dining out destination.
30Boltwood in AmherstThe standard critique of hotel restaurants is that they're not very interesting, since they typically maintain menus on which chicken wings, pizza, and steak must necessarily coexist.
30Boltwood, the restaurant in Amherst's recently re-opened Lord Jeffrey Inn, avoids such mediocrity. Instead, the establishment features a laudably creative bill of fare and, in doing so, seems poised to become a bona fide dining out destination.
The restaurant space, like the rest of the property, has been completely renovated. The style's elegant but not stuffy, with the Inn's original pseudo-Colonial decor recast in a more modern guise.
Dino Giordano, the Lord Jeffrey's executive chef, focuses his talents on what he's dubbed "modern farm-to-table cooking."
Thus he prepares the likes of Beer-braised Short Ribs ($23), Seared Duck Breast ($25) accented with baba ganoush, and Parisian Gnocchi ($20) with wild mushrooms and braised fennel.
Scallops ($27), an archetypical New England favorite, are paired with pea puree and baby bok choy, while locally-farmed Chicken ($20) comes to the table with culinary exotica like salsify and a duck confit fritter in tow.
The list of starters is small but diverse -- an Artisan Charcuterie Plate ($12) that features homemade pate, Mussels ($9) steamed in a tomato coriander broth, and Burrata ($12), a cream-enriched fresh mozzarella that's accompanied by dry-cured ham and a balsamic drizzle.
We began our dinner with complementary demitasse cups of chilled tomato-fennel soup, a deliciously savory appetite-awakener.
A first course of Watermelon Gazpacho ($8), the daily soup selection, successfully integrated the melon's sweetness into a zesty, tomato- and cucumber-based cold soup. Enriched with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, the gazpacho was a refreshing tonic for a heat-dulled palate.
Lamb Two Ways ($25) takes its name from the two different cuts, loin and rib, used in the presentation. The locally raised meat had a bit more "lamb" flavor than we're used to, but that proved to be in no way objectionable.
A small, crumb-topped tomato tart served as an accompaniment, while whole baby carrots and braised Swiss chard lent subtle earthy nuances to the composition.
The day's Market Fish ($24) was halibut the evening we stopped by, and we certainly enjoyed the way it was presented to us.
Pan roasted just enough to make the flesh opaque, the halibut was served in a rich Romesco broth, an elaboration that contributed heady sweet pepper and garlic flavors.
Roasted tomatoes, steamed greens, baby clams, and whole potatoes the size of marbles completed one of the most enjoyable seafood entrees we've encountered in quite some time.
Entrees at 30Boltwood don't include salads, although an attractive arrangement of local lettuces ($4) dressed with sherry vinaigrette can be had.
Slices of a whole-grain loaf and butter are provided with dinner, however.
The bar at 30Boltwood stands ready to concoct all manner of adult libations, and the wine program at the Inn is unique in its conception. Items on the list are grouped according to the wine's style, and all selections are priced at $45 a bottle and $25 a half bottle. Two sizes of by-the-glass pours are also available.
A small but carefully crafted dessert selection includes a "Cappuccino" ($8) chocolate cake served with espresso ice cream, Mixed Berries ($7) macerated in Kirsch, and an Artisan Cheese Plate ($8).
The restaurant's Coconut Rice Pudding ($7) elevated a comfort food staple into the realm of ethereal. Garnished with diced ripe mango and a small scoop of sorbet, the pudding had a delightfully light texture and a mellow coconut creaminess.
Salted Caramel Pot de Creme ($7) was a more stylized composition, with the caramel pudding, a quenelle-shaped scoop of chocolate mouse, diced hazelnuts, and a smear of chocolate sauce fancifully arranged on a long rectangular plate. All those elements worked together to create an exceptional dessert experience.
The service staff at 30Boltwood is youthful but well trained, with those attending us discharging their responsibilities with laudable professionalism.
30Boltwood is open for breakfast and lunch daily. On Sundays, a brunch menu replaces the normal noontime bill of fare.
Name: 30Boltwood
Address: 30 Boltwood Avenue, Amherst
Phone: (413) 256-8200
Hours: Dinner served nightly 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Entree Prices: $19 - $27
Credit Cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped Access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted and advisable, especially on weekends